Noon Dublin time is approaching and I am in the waiting area
of the Dublin airport listening for an announcement regarding my delayed flight
to the USA. The good part is that when leaving Dublin many times you can go
through US Immigration at the airport, so when arriving in the US you do not
have to go through that process. That plus Global Entry status makes the lines
much easier and shorter…So I will use this time to compose this blog entry.
At the end of June I began two months of service to four
small Presbyterian Church of Ireland churches—Newbliss, Clones, Ballyhobridge,
and Stonebridge. I knew the experience would be different from the previous six
years on the island, and I was right. It was different and wonderful. The
churches were located on the border between the Republic of Ireland and
Northern Ireland (UK), and had gone through some interesting and difficult
experiences in the Times of Troubles. But all that has changed and the area is
peaceful. In fact one symbol of the times is that one of the churches is
actually in the North, while the other three are in the Republic. And as the
border is very transparent and highly irregular, on one short ten mile drive
near our house we began in the Republic, crossed into the North, crossed back
into the Republic, crossed back into the North, then ended at our destination
in the Republic. One road, straight, and short…
The churches are in the Monaghan area, a part of Ireland
known for its dairy products—and the people were almost all farming people.
They were gracious, friendly, and hard-working—tied to the milking of the cows,
raising chickens, the cutting of silage, and the vagaries of the weather (which
was wonderful-the best weather in anyone’s memory).
In addition to preaching on Sundays I initiated a Sunday
evening gathering where we began with studying parables but moved wherever
questions led. And the highlight for me was visiting… I was able to call on and
be welcomed into almost every family home in the four churches. Unannounced,
but shuttled by George or Gerald, two key leaders in the churches, I chatted,
drank tea or coffee, and ate innumerable scones or buns around kitchen tables
or in sitting rooms. I learned about the people, the place, and farming…And was
blessed.
Nancy and I lived in a small attached workers’ cottage on
the main (and only) street of Newbliss. Situated there we were able to get to
know almost everyone in the town who either ran or owned the corner store, the chip
shop, and the butcher—the only retail businesses in town apart from three pubs.
We had chances to talk about the lives of the people, and they asked about ours
and the churches we served. While there is a divide between the Protestant and
the Catholic communities, I sensed no hostility only curiosity and a genuine
desire to know more. While recent history has focused on these divisions, it is
important to remember that both Catholics and Presbyterians were equally
disenfranchised for centuries, and both suffered equally under the Anglican
establishment. In fact one of the churches, the Stonebridge church, is situated
where it is because when it was built in the 1700s it was illegal to build a
Presbyterian church within two miles of any town. So it was the Clones town church
but out in the country.
The churches that I served stand as monuments to rugged endurance,
often that of just a few families but always for many years. Farming in this
part of the country has been hard and unattractive to newcomers, and the border
troubles have been difficult, so the Protestant population and church
attendance has declined dramatically over the past generation. But those who
have stayed are now seeing a happier time as farms prosper and the religious
divide subsides. The peoples’ faith and culture are closely intertwined, and history
is important, but I found an openness to the strange ways of a strange American,
and a desire to see the church grow. I firmly believe that the churches of
Ireland, and particularly those in the Republic, have much potential for
spreading the gospel as they seek new and creative ways that move beyond a
label to the core of the good news—Christ.
When Nancy and I began this kind of ministry seven years ago
there was an under-supply of pastors for churches in Ireland. That has, by the
grace of God, changed as more are responding to the call to ministry, so that
there is now an adequate supply. This is good news for the church in Ireland,
but means that the need for what we have been doing is less. If that is the
case it may mean that this year was a final one for us in this role. If so, we
could not have had a happier experience for the ending.
Part 2: Cycling
On September 1 Brian Magowan and I took off on what is
turning out to be an annual event, a bike tour. Our plans had been to cycle
through the Italian, Swiss and French Alps, going over some of the highest
passes in Europe, including many of those featured in the Tour de France.
However, on reconsideration and a moment of sanity, we decided to change—not to
the easiest trek but to one that was a bit less demanding. In the end we did do
some Alpine cycling, but most of the time was in central Italy, Sardinia and
Corsica.
Our trip began in Bergamo, Italy, Ryanair’s Milan airport.
The first day cycling we made our way into the Alps around Lake Como, arriving
late in the day at what is known as the Cyclists’ Chapel, a chapel just above
Bellagio that has been officially dedicated and consecrated to cycling by the
Pope.
The next day we descended into Bellagio and by ferry and train made our
way to Modena, Italy.
From there we cycled to Lucca and then Livorno, took the ferry to Olbia, Sardinia, then cycled north through the Costa Smeralda of Sardinia. After a short ferry to Bonifacio, Corsica, we cycled up to the center of the island then down the other side. Next we followed the coast road north to Calvi and L’Ile Rousse, where we took a ferry to Nice and caught the plane back to Dublin.
From there we cycled to Lucca and then Livorno, took the ferry to Olbia, Sardinia, then cycled north through the Costa Smeralda of Sardinia. After a short ferry to Bonifacio, Corsica, we cycled up to the center of the island then down the other side. Next we followed the coast road north to Calvi and L’Ile Rousse, where we took a ferry to Nice and caught the plane back to Dublin.
Having chosen to bypass the heights of the Alps, we still
found plenty of hills, passes, and long hauls. The central area of Italy is
divided from Tuscany by a rather high range of mountains, and we went over
them. And Sardinia and Corsica are both simply made up of a mountain range that
sticks up out of the sea. There is nothing particularly dramatic to report on
such a ride, except that each day was a challenge and each day had its rewards.
The scenery was fantastic as we went over high passes and as we pedaled
hundreds of meters above the blue sea as it crashed into rocks creating inaccessible
coves. The Tour de France began this, its 100th year, in Corsica,
and locals are certain that the sights that were seen by millions will bring a
flood of new visitors next year. I am sure they are right.
So, the good news is that as I approach my 70th
birthday God continues to enable me to enjoy his creation in this manner. As I
go along mile by mile and minute by minute I am grateful. And I marvel at what
God has made!! As the Psalmist wrote long ago, For you make me glad by your deeds, O LORD; I sing for joy at the
works of your hands. Psalm 92:4.
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