Monday, September 14--Burghausen, Germany

The sound of the wheels of a car on wet pavement is a distinctive sound. It is a sound that cyclists are particularly attuned to, and particularly in the morning. From the comfort of a warm bed one can hear that sound and immediately understand what lies ahead—cold, wet and probable misery.

Such was the sound that Brian and I awoke to this morning. And such was the majority of the day. Yesterday we had enjoyed near perfect weather, but today made up for it. While not a drenching downpour, most of the day there was a drizzle that clouded the glasses and dampened the spirit. And the path we were on, the Innradweg, did not ameliorate the discomfort. The path was well marked and well situated, following the Inn River fairly closely and with excellent views, but the surface was regularly a gritty sand. Such a surface probably would be good in dry weather, but in the damp of this day it simply clogged the brakes and covered the legs. And what is more, cycling in sand is somewhat akin to running in sand—it takes a constant effort that is greater than what another surface may need. And the route was upriver, not downriver as the Naab, Regen and Danube were. All of this meant that instead of being able to look around at the beauty, one’s focus has to be on the front wheel and what lies a few feet ahead. Rocks to dodge, muddy spots to evade, and ruts to avoid. But such is part of any cycle journey…

So, in the end we went 81 kilometers (50+ miles) and called it a day. Our next goal is Salzburg, was unreachable in just one day, so we divided the distance in two parts, and today’s part was what we accomplished. We traveled along the Inn and Salzach rivers, through miles of corn fields and past several small but charming towns, and have ended up in a nice hotel in a delightful small German town, Burghausen. Neither Brian nor I had heard of the place before, but evidently many people have, including many famous jazz performers whose names and presence are immortalized in the main street, a street called the street of fame. The town is just across the Salzach River from Ach en der Salzach, Austria, and its imposing castle and ancient main street is quite interesting.


So, with today’s trip we have covered nearly 750 miles in 12 days. We have cycled all or parts of the Elberadweg, Saaleradweg, Naabradweg, Regenradweg, Donauradweg, Innradweg and Salzachradweg. Rad means cycle weg means way. Each has had its own personality, its own plus and minus, its own character. And it has been good…Next comes the Alps—and the adventure of living goes on. Thanks be to God!

On The Road Again...

This morning, Friday, October 6, began with a clanging of various sorts outside my hotel window. I assumed it was people collecting the trash, an assumption supported by the odor wafting through my window. But then the jackhammers began in earnest and I realized that construction of some major sort was my wake-up call.
I am in Ulm, a town in south-west Germany, near the Black Forest. I arrived here last night after a train ride from Simbach, Germany, a small town on the Inn River. I had never heard of Ulm, but when I arrived I was impressed by the l ong pedestrian mall, and then stunned by the lofty cathedral at its head. An amazing masterpiece that seems to pierce the heavens themselves. Unfortunately, photos of such grand edifices never convey their meaning--especially when taken by an amateur...Suffice it to say that as long as that cathedral has been in place I am sure that the eyes of countless onlookers have been moved heaven-ward, hopefully to the God who made the skies and seas!
Last Friday I began the completion of my planned cycle journey for the fall. I flew Malev Airlines from Tirana to Zurich, where I picked up my bicycle, which I had left at a hotel there, and on Saturday I began cycling eastward. My goal was the Alps to the confluence of the Inn and Salzach Rivers, about 30 miles north of Salzburg, Austria, and 30 miles south of Passau, Germany. I had heard of the cycle path along the River Inn, and wanted to try it, plus the Alps in the fall sounded fascinating.

SWISS COUNTRYSIDE
My first day was primarily through Switzerland, although it ended where the Alps really began, on the Rhine in Austria. The Swiss are noted for their organizational skills and their cycle-friendly roads and paths, but I had a bit of trouble. I think one needs a detailed map of the places traveling, as I found the signposts confusing, found myself lost at places, and ended up climbing some pretty long hills when a simple way around was at hand...Oh, well, of such things character is made--they tell me.
A HEFTY SWISS BARBEQUE


THE ALPS AWAIT

A SHELTER IN A STORM
The next day I climbed into the Austrian Alps proper. Up and up for a long time, and then, just as I crested the first pass, the rain came. And it came hard... Not being too much of a glutton for punishment, I ducked into the first inn I found, and enjoyed a leisurely light lunch. The inn had been serving since the 1600's, and had it down well--great ambiance and fine soup. When I had finished the rain had settled down, and I went on...Off and on getting wet, but in spectacular scenery, I ended up stopping in a wonderful Alpine Inn just short of the major pass I was to face. The view was spectacular, the food wonderful, and the room not very expensive--what else could you ask for??
A CHAPEL IN THE ALPS
The next day started with broken clouds and some sunshine. The climb up to the top of the pass was as expected--steep but not too long as I had done much of it the day before. Then the downhill...It went on and on and on--through beautiful Alpine forest...The Alps gave way to rolling hills and meadows of Bavaria, and the day ended in a Sports Hotel just a few miles shy of the German border...
ALPINE HEIGHTS
Tuesday was a day cycling through Bavarian rolling hills and farm lands. I passed through Bad Tolz, another of the many towns I had never heard of, but that many Germans (and others) obviously had. A spa resort with a beautiful river slicing through the middle--many pedestrian only streets, lined with flowers of all kinds. And the sun came out for a while, which always makes things seem a lot happier! That day ended in a town just short of the Inn River, where I found a nice hotel and where I could listen to the driving rain that hit just as I checked in...

BAVARIAN FARMLAND

INN RIVER
Wednesday was a day cycling along the Inn River. This river begins near St. Moritz, Switzerland, courses through much of Austria (Innsbruck is one of the many cities on the Inn), then crosses into Germany where it finally empties into the Danube at Passau, north of Vienna. One of the goals of this trip, as I mentioned, was to try this path, and while it was interesting at points, it was a bit of a disappointment. The surface was not smooth, and the miles (kilometers) jarring. Much of the time it was away from any towns, which sounds good but takes some of the interest out of a European cycling trip--you want to see people and towns, not just forest and a river. Also, at points the signage was lacking, and, again, as before, I ended up wandering...In the end I went back to the road, which was nearly empty, and ended the day in Markt--another town I had never heard of but which I quickly learned was the birthplace of the present Pope, and so is destined for some fame...
Thursday I finished this section of the trek at Simbach, and jumped on a train to retrace my steps and begin a route through Germany and France to the Channel and on to London, where I hope to end this journey. First Munich then here to Ulm, and on today to the headwaters of the Neckar River and a few days exploring it...
On the road it is difficult to keep the blog going daily. But I hope this gives you a quick flavor of what I am doing and where I am...All long the way I have met interesting people, seen fascinating places, and been kept safe in the arm of God...
In His Adventures, Will